Worm holes in Butternut

Tom M

Well-known member
And some more....
 

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ttalma

Well-known member
Looking real good. I'd better not show this to Melissa!


For the templates, you could print a little lip on the ends so that it has a place to register against the wood.
 

Tom M

Well-known member
I like the concept of printing the templates with ledges to locate on the ends of the board.  To work I would need to have the edge on both sides of the template so I could flip it to mark both ends of the board. Good idea – Thanks!

UPPER MOLDINGS

I made all the molding for the upper and lower cabinets before starting assembly.  I had to get a picture of all of them together!

After completing the lower two moldings I made the bolection molding.  My painted pine cabinet had a similar molding which I scraped.  Unfortunately, this molding was a little larger, and so I considered making a new scraper.  It was then I realized I could make this with a side-bead and a round (but I ended up using a cove cutter at the router table).

The crown molding came next. This molding was the most complex.  I started by using the chamfer bit at the router table to form the center V. I then made multiple cuts on the table saw to remove most of the wood from the cove. I finished the cove using a #10 round and a scraper I ground to the shape. The round portion was then formed with a block plane, rabbet plane and scrapers. All that was left was to cut the two bevels.  This presented a predicament.  The angles were around 42° and 48°.  The 42° could be easily cut on the table saw.  The 48° would require running the board vertical against the fence and didn’t seem safe.  I ended up cutting the 48° at 45° and then hand planed to get the 48°.

The cap molding was easy. A quick run past the chamfer bit at the router table and a couple passes with a block plane and scraper.

I started by installing the cap molding.  I couldn’t find any evidence on Gene’s cabinet of pegs on the upper moldings, and I had a picture of the top of the cabinet which showed square cut nails, so I used Tremont cut nails to install all the moldings. To keep the cantilever ends aligned while gluing I used clamping blocks with adhesive sandpaper applied so they wouldn’t slip. A lot of clamps were involved but I could not be happier with the results.

I lost sleep over the compound miter cut on the crown molding (seriously I had dreams about it.)  I’ve installed lots of crown molding in our house and have made my share of cuts which were wrong.  I set up my chop saw for crown molding and used cut-offs from the ceiling crown to make practice cuts.  I laid these on the cabinet to be sure I had the layout correct. I made my side cuts and one front cut like I did on the base moldings. I marked the remaining cut using my block plane blade. I worked my way to a perfect fit by making several cuts. I repositioned the molding each time by changing a feeler gage next to my stop block.  Of course, there are a lot of errors built up in this cut due to the compound angle, and the fact the cabinet side might not be at a perfect right angle to the front.  To adjust the side piece miters I used carbon paper to look for contact points, and my big paring chisel to shave away material.

After these two moldings were done the bolection was a breeze.  I set all the nails and filled them with hide glue and fine butternut filings.


Next up: Doors.
 

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Tom M

Well-known member
More pictures:
 

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Tom M

Well-known member
And still more including my cut-off sample.
 

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ttalma

Well-known member
Looks great. Nice tight miters. I normally do a few test cuts and get it real close. The on the returns I use a shooting board to adjust. But it looks like you would have needed a donkey ear for the molding that size.
 

Tom M

Well-known member
Over the last couple months, I have been able to get into my shop here and there to work on the doors.  I held off for a while as I was trying to find a source for the hinges.  I found a couple places online but never got responses from e-mails and phone calls.  I finally found someone who went so far as to make a prototype and give me a quote, but he has not responded to repeated e-mails in over two months.  I found someone else who hopefully will be getting me a quote this week.


I decided to move forward with the doors as over-lap which means the hinge will require a 5/16” offset.


Even though I modeled the mortise and tenon joint in 3D, I still had a hard time figuring out the order of the build.  I had done this joint on my spice box-on-frame, but that was a long time ago.  I decided to grow the joint on my 3D printer, so I had pieces to hold in my hand for reference.  This worked great and allowed me to break the process down.  It is easy to do if you have done all the layout ahead of time with a knife.


Back in late April I had cut out all the rails and stiles and joined a face on each.  They sat for several weeks and were still flat, so I ran them through my planer (alternating sides) and then final sized them.


I had left my mortiser and tenon jig set-up from the face frame, so cutting these went quickly. I had noticed on the face frame some inconsistent results with the mortise, and so this time I brought a 6” quick release clamp to hold the boards to the fence.  Well worth the extra time of clamping and un-clamping for each plunge.  These were all through mortises which had to be cut from both sides.


I knifed and sawed the tenon shoulder, and then cut the cheeks on my table saw.  I used the band saw to cut the width of the tenons and then a handsaw to remove the waste – followed with a chisel to pare to the knife line.  I then used a shoulder plane to take a little off the tenons for a fit I could tap home by hand.


The next step was to form the molding detail on the inside edge of the door.  I could have used my Stanley 78 and a hollow plane to form this feature, but I decided to use my router table.  When I’ve done copied joints in the past, I spent a lot of time fitting the joint.  I believe this was mainly due to the inconsistent molding profiles. In this case four doors mean sixteen pieces need to be molded.  Half of these are only about 10” long. After routing I spent a couple hours paring away wood and coping the rails. This was relaxing work.


Every frame went together with a nice tight fit on the first try!




Next up: Raised Panels
 

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Tom M

Well-known member
It's been over three months and no reply!


I started this "blog" by saying I would only continue posting if someone replies after each post.  There have been over 4500 views so far - surely someone could post a reply.  Tell me its ugly, or beautiful, or I could have done something a different way.  I'm just trying to get some traffic at the FORUM.  There used to be so much discussion, but now there's almost none. I used to love logging in each day at lunchtime to read and learn.


We still have door construction to go over, and hinges (can't wait to tell you about my hinges), then knobs and latches and shellacking.


BUT....  There needs to be a REPLY!!!!




Tom
 

macchips4

Well-known member
Ok I'll reply, When the occasion arrises for me to do a coped joint on a door it never comes out consistently well. Yours look great......Did you use an in-cannel gouge?
 

macchips4

Well-known member
I always found butternut to be "fuzzy" Almost too soft . Need to have very sharp tools, always sharpening.........
 

Tom M

Well-known member
Thank you for replying macchips4!

I just use a carving gouge for cutting the cope joint.  An in-cannel would work well but I do not have one. I made several short videos of the process of fitting the rails to the stiles for a planned SAPFM ZOOM meeting I was trying to set-up for the Iroquois chapter (which never happened because I could only get a couple people to respond!)  I would be happy to share these, but they total 1.7 Gig for all six files (total time = 16 minutes.)  If anyone is really interested, I could share a Dropbox link. Attached are some screen prints of forming the cope, and pictures of the cabinets with the doors sitting in the openings.
I learned the cope joint for the doors on my Spice-Box-on-Frame (Gene Landon Olde Mill class 2001), and did a ton of them on my Pewter Press (2003 class) for the two 10 pane doors.  In the last ten years I’ve made something like 50 raised panels with cope joints for my kitchen and bathroom cabinets and wall units – which explains why this stepback hutch is my first big fun project in years!

The butternut did have some fuzziness after hand planing.  I hardly ever sand any surfaces other than on some molding profiles and to break sharp corners, but on this project, I decided to hand-sand the entire piece before shellacking.
 

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Tom M

Well-known member
Here are Dropbox links to the videos.  I will be removing these files from my Dropbox on 12/15/2020 due to limited storage space.


Coping 1 - Layout:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/zbaeszmblo17xh9/Coping%201%20-%20Layout%2020200714_090159.mp4?dl=0


Coping [font=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]2 - Stile wood removal:[/font]
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mjvn8mc01pa1xp9/Coping%202%20-%20Stile%20wood%20removal%2020200714_090300.mp4?dl=0


Coping 3 - Rail discussion:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/zjx24rhzhnbj3du/Coping%203%20-%20Rail%20discussion%2020200714_091002.mp4?dl=0


Coping 4 - Rail wood removal:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xeh600aedf31msd/Coping%204%20-%20Rail%20wood%20removal%2020200714_091117.mp4?dl=0


Coping 5 - Cutting the cope:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wcsr6y5b7ulge7q/Coping%205%20-%20Cutting%20the%20cope%2020200714_091449.mp4?dl=0


Coping 6 - Test fit
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wgp3fekmr8rhkc7/Coping%206%20-%20Test%20fit%2020200714_093421.mp4?dl=0




Best regards,
Tom
 

Tom M

Well-known member
I was just notified that these Dropbox links have been suspended by Dropbox due to too much traffic!


I'm not sure what to do about it. I wonder if there is anyway to upload these to SAPFM and have them stored there?
 

macchips4

Well-known member
That's weird......is'nt that the purpose of drop box? Maybe another platform, like instagram? But I think there is a limit on video length/time.
 
The links are working now. I suspect they have a daily download limit.
Nice videos, clear and well presented.
I also like the bench top workbench.
Troy
 

Tom M

Well-known member
The note I received from DropBox says DropBox is not meant to be a file sharing site (although you can share links).  If too much bandwidth is used, they will temporarily suspend the links.  I have now uploaded them to Youtube as private listings available through the following links.

Coping 1 - Layout
https://youtu.be/yXv5QVa0eCI

Coping 2 - Stile wood removal
https://youtu.be/cT1QbPBQ390

Coping 3 - Rail discussion
https://youtu.be/Qz9MllxR2Q4

Coping 4 - Rail wood removal
https://youtu.be/xu5WHJU9Vzc

Coping 5 - Cutting the cope
https://youtu.be/RhOKjByO8Rk

Coping 6 - Test fit
https://youtu.be/7a1EhpBDpQQ
 

Tom M

Well-known member
Troy,


The benchtop workbench is copied from one Steve Latta had at a workshop he gave to my local club in 2005.  I took a lot of pictures and some rough measurements to make mine.  He did a nice FWW article on his bench in 2015 (#244).


Shortly after making my bench I was helping a friend make a rocking horse for his son. I set him up on it for rasping and filing the curved parts. He kept running the rasp into the top of the bench leaving a bunch of ugly gouges. I didn't say anything about it but I was a little bummed about it.  Years later I see those markings and it makes me happy thinking about the time we spent in my shop, and all the kids that have gotten to ride the horse!
 
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