The German style drawers have no bottom groove, so Jeff's method wouldn't work. I've done drawers with the bottom groove and used the bottom as an alignment guide - works great as well. However, the FWW jig can work on pretty much any dovetail. Another thing I do is prep the boards the same width (even though the sides are not as wide as the front, and the back is not as wide as the sides.) I feel this makes layout easier. I’ll rip to final width after dry assembling the drawer.
I put the drawer parts in the oven to warm them to keep the glue from gelling so fast. Not really required for the drawers as they went together fast, but I did it anyway. A lot less clamp force is required to pull the joints tight.
Now on to the moldings.
The first molding I made was the cove molding for under the top of the bottom cabinet. This required 1" square wood. For layout, I 3D printed templates (my son gave me a 3D printer for Christmas, and I’ve found a lot of uses for it in the shop – templates, chisel guards, knobs, hinge samples, etc.) They worked great, and I think I’ll be printing templates in the future! I made a couple rips on the table saw to remove the center of the cove, and then a round (#10 I think) to form the cove. I finished with a scraper I ground. This was an easy molding, and a good one to start off with to build my confidence.
The next molding was for the base skirt. For this one I made two table saw cuts to start the fillets, and then I used a 45° bit at the router table to remove most of remaining wood. A mix of a rabbet plane and hollow plane followed by a cabinet scraper finish the job. I then spent some time cutting out the bracket feet detail. For the long internal rip cut on the front I used the table saw. The straight sections on the sides were too short to do on the table saw, so I rough cut them on the bandsaw and used a wide chisel to complete.
I cut the miters on my chop saw and used a wide pairing chisel (freshly sharpened) to adjust. My installation method is as follows: I cut the side pieces miters (keeping the boards long) and then one of the front miters. After positioning one side and the front I drilled a 1/8” hole in the middle of the front molding. I use a drill bit or transfer punch in this hole to lock the position of the front piece so I can scribe the side of the cabinet on it. I make the scribe line using a block plane blade with a block of wood attached with carpet tape as a handle!
For the skirt molding I clamped a straight edge to the cabinet as a reference for the top surface of the molding. I then glued the front and sides using clamps. The moldings couldn’t shift during glue-up due to the pinned hole. After removing the clamps, I then drilled holes for the 3/8” pegs (one which eliminates the 1/8” hole. All the pegs later had to be carved to the molding profile – not hard to do in the soft Butternut.
Next, I’ll discuss the upper moldings.