Veneer identification help

Contact Richard Kundorf at Carlton McLendon Inc.  , http://www.rarewoodsandveneers.com  or 404-876-1144 for both identification and purchase of the veneer.  Richard's assistand, Mark Anstey, is also knowledgable.  The Peach State guys have taken a number or SAPFM's nationally prominent speaking and teaching  members to this little known resource and they were floored by both Richard's inventory and knowledge base.
 
Your problem will be thickness and color. How are you at finishing? American Walnut but sap grain might be an easy alternative. Is it just the cross banding on the gallery needed? Color will change over the years but we should be dead and gone by then! Dyeing (color) should take care of your problem. I go by Wilson quite often on our way to Topsail if you need any help.
 
Jeff L Headley said:
Your problem will be thickness and color. How are you at finishing? American Walnut but sap grain might be an easy alternative. Is it just the cross banding on the gallery needed? Color will change over the years but we should be dead and gone by then! Dyeing (color) should take care of your problem. I go by Wilson quite often on our way to Topsail if you need any help.
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Jeff,

I plan on finishing it by spraying one or more coats of seedlac shellac and top coatiing with cat lacquer.  I thought about using walnut sap wood and if I can't find the original, I may have to improvise. 

Mike
 
Cat lacquer May  be a bad way to go for an antique. Besides being a modern finish, it can't be repaired. Cat lacquer can be spotted very easy by a collector and will reduce the value considerably if it's a good piece. Cat lacquer is good for kitchen cabs, not so good for furniture. If you have to use lacquer, I would suggest nitro lacquer, or better yet, just shellac. Good luck,   Randy  
 
Mike, I agree with Randy.  Catalyzed lacquer does not look "right" on a period or period-looking piece.  Furthermore, while it may not show up early in the piece's life, eventually the differences in their chemistry will cause the topcoat to "creep".  This will appear as crazing or cracking and the piece will have to be refinished.  PSP
 
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