Seymour Side Table Construction

I'm beginning the build of a Seymour Side Table similar to the one Rob Millard shows on his site with turreted corners and have a few questions on the construction.  The legs are turned and run up the side of the table case.

My understanding is the legs are not attached by mortise and tenons but rather the table sits on an inset edge cut out from the leg.  The inset cutout is filled with light stock using a paper glue joint when turned as to avoid tear out.  Is this the correct manor of attaching the legs?  Is there any additional information on how these type of outset legs are attached?

Are the leg diameter dimensions available for this type of Seymour side table.  I'm have 8/4 stock available, but need to know whether to purchase 10/4.

I've seen several reproduction versions of this table each with different inlay veneers used.  Does someone have the Robert Mussey book to confirm which woods are used?  If someone could attach pictures from the book that would be appreciated.  I would like to purchase the book but it is too expensive.
I have two copies of the Mussey book.  One in original shrink wrap.  I will check my working copy to see what material is listed.

Rob will answer your question on construction if you contact him via email.  He may not be fast.

Also, Mickey Callahan build a similar table with same construction of truned legs being attached to the case.  I do not recall his methods for construction.

Ken Johnson
Turret corner leg construction. I have excavated the inside corner and screwed the legs through the inside of the skirt into the leg. The construction of the skirt should be more of a concern. 1 3/4"  or 1 7/8" at the extreme. I wish I had pictures. Dog on it!
I'm building the case now and am trying to determine the best way to attach the front drawer runners, dividers, and side blocking.  I've attached an image from Rob Millard's construction (credit to one of Rob's sites) that shows his construction manor.  Its hard for me to see, but it appears to have a side block glued up that is cross-grain.  I'd prefer to avoid this due to cross grain movement issues.

Does anyone have any recommendations?  The sides are 3/4 thick.  The back panel is dovetailed.



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The photo is from his photobucket site linked from his old blog.  Here is the site - where you can view additional angles.
This is a dovetail case sides into the back (all horizontal grain). The 3 front rails structurally can't be dovetailed into the front of the case sides. They are dovetailed into the vertical grain front pieces, top and bottom rail then glued to the case sides and then veneered over the front to hide the joint. The center rail is probably mortised in. Hope this make sense.
The drawer guides should be glued to the case sides. The bearers should be nailed, not glued,  to the drawer guide so they can be replaced in the future, after wear.
I am not sure why the bearers are short in the photo posted. If you want to hide your gold bars in your drawers after our most recent election then you might want full ( front to back) drawer bearers. Dog on it
Thanks Jeff.  This is very helpful.  This is what I was thinking, but was concerned about the cross-grain movement (especially since I would be veneering over this and partially over the side end grain).  Is there any advantage to screwing with elongated holes instead or am I overthinking this.  Would veneering over the side end grain be fine or would you just skip that?  It is covered by the leg so I'm not sure it matters too much.

I haven't heard the term drawer bearer before.  Are you just referencing the runners the drawer rides on?  I do have a lot of gold bars :) (don't tell anyone).

Also you mentioned that the bottom rail would be dovetailed?  Wouldn't a mortise and tenon be stronger in this case since the glue would be the only thing holding the dovetail from falling out since there isn't a shoulder/wood to rest on?
I just corrected my previous post about bearers and guides. Bearers bear the weight of the drawer, guides keep the drawer from racking as it is slid in. Your guides should fill the cavity between the front and back legs about an inch above the bearer. Notice that the top rail also has a guide with a kicker above. The kicker keeps the top drawer from dropping as it is pulled out.
If you figure that your case sides are 13/16" and your leg is 1 3/4" then the vertical piece will need to be 15/16". The bottom front rail should get dovetail up into the 15/16" vertical piece. A mortise and tenoned joint will have no structural support cross ways. A dovetailed joint at the bottom will at least keep things from spreading. Then all is glued to the 13/16" case sides. Screws with elongated hole sound good but glue should help to keep vertical block and side skirts from moving behind the veneered façade. The bearers bear the weight of the drawer. The dovetailed bottom front rail keeps the front legs from separating as someone slides the table across a rug, left or right, with all your gold and a heavy lamp.
The vertical block is no different than a vertical glue block on an Ogee or flat bracket foot which we have many of from Period chests ( with their original blocking ) from the mid to late 1700's which are available for sale in our showroom located one hour West of Washington DC.
Thank you Jeff.  This all makes sense.  I'm doing the hammer veneering today and hope to do the runners and bearers this weekend.  I'll post pictures when finished.  Thanks again!
Jeff and Ken,

Thanks for the advice. Without it I wouldn't of been able to knock out the base. Here is the finished base. Now on to the remainder of the top!



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