Round Table Top Cross Banding Application

A

awleonard

Well-known member
So, what is a good way to aplpy the cross banding on a round veneered radial pattern top?  I've seen references to applying the radial pattern, then routing for the banding.  I'v also seen references to making the whole thing (all taped up) and aplpying all at once.  Any tips would be appreciated!  I am planning an inlay between the main field (radial pattern of figured makore) and the the banding (satinwood).

Thanks,

Tony
 
Tony,

I've found this article to be very helpful for veneering circular table tops. http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=32531
 
Ha!  I've been studying that article for a while!  Nice work, BTW.  The router stuff makes me nervous.  I'll have  alot of effort put into the field when I fire up the router to make a recess for the banding.  I did try an experiment using the scratch stock for the inlay in between just to see how the veneers would react. Thanks for the help and the article.  

Tony

Here is what I have so far... don't mind the gaps and glue, I had just fitted the tenons and dry fitted to see what it looked like.  Fitting those tenons was a chore.  Mine came out pretty sloppy, but they fit tight and I was able to close up the gaps pretty well.  I'll have to work on that a little harder next time.  That is a lot of things to make fit.  Got me to wondering if a better approach might have been to make two legs tenoned and two legs half lapped.    I made the skirts as two pieces and then cut them in half.  Oh well.  Next time...
 
I finished up the edges this weekend.  All I have left to do is add a small ebony dot in the center (now, how to drill that hole clean and centered...?).  I applied the edging with a band clamp in three sections.  I tried several things, but  a piece of cork covered with packing tape made teh best backer.  I had to use blue tape to pull the edges in towards the center to get rid of some small gaps.  This satin wood is not very smooth.  Worked out pretty well.  There were a few small issues I had to fix, but thankfully, nothing major.  The top looks pretty rough in this pic.  I had just used mineral spirits to loosen the adhesive on the tape holding the trammel puck on the top for cutting the top round.  I left it on until the last minute in case I needed that reference point.  If the edging had not gone well, I could have added a rabbet and set in a piece of wood right at the edge.  I know a lot of folks do that anyway, but I preferred the look without it.  If the edge doesn'tfair well, I may get to add it someday! 

Thanks for the help.  I can't wait to see that first coat of finish on the satin wood and the makore. 


Tony
 
Tony,

If you have a milling machine, or a friend who is a machinist, clamp the table to the bed with legs astraddle, line up the chuck using one of the little red  laser pointers that you chuck up in the Jacobs chuck, center the red dot on the table with the in and cross feed screws,  switch to the correct end mill or Forstner bit , set the depth stop, and bore/drill away.

Karl
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top