Leather writing surface on fall front desk

B

Bob Seibels

Member
I am making the Glen Huey "New England Secretary" in mahogany, and am planning to actually use the desk for writing.  I want to add a desk leather to the inside of the fall front, but I can't figure out where it should go (see photo).  The fall front is ~ 36"L x 14"W.  The hinges stick in 1-1/2" and the lock 2" from the edge, leaving only about 10" for the leather insert, which I think is too narrow.  Should the leather be notched out for the hinges and lock?  How close to the edge should it be? Should it also extend over to the other side?  Or, should I forget this idea and just go with a writing pad.  I really like the way desk leathers look, but I'm not sure working around the hardware is the way to go.
 

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Ten inches sounds about right. I have seen a skiver laid around the lock and it didn't look well.
 
There are different leather surface treatments that should be considered. Many upholstery leathers will scratch and mare under use from pencils, pens, letter openers, and such. Most leather suppliers ( We use Asher Leather from Texas) offer a desk top leather which is usually a little thicker with a different surface treatment than upholstery leather but is meant for writing desk (tables with leather insets). If your leather spans the fall board and writing surface ( which many do) you could see the under side of the leather when the lid is in it's closed position and the thicker leather isn't conducive to bending. I do find this looks better but is very subject to wear over the years but we should all be gone by then. How will you be fastening your leather to your wooden surface?
 
Jeff,
The leather I am considering is from a desk leather supplier in Pompano Beach.  He has been mentioned in some previous posts on the forum.  I have some samples of his materials en route, but he has told me that the leather is ~ 1/16" thick.  I haven't decided on the adhesive yet, but I have read that both hide glue and wallpaper adhesive will work.  Which would you suggest? FYI, I am using only hide glue to construct the piece. 
Regarding using one piece to span the gap, I don't really like the idea of seeing the  underside of the leather when the desk is closed. How would one deal with the hinges and lock?
What about using baize instead of leather?  Are there any advantages/disadvantages to this material?
 
Baize or felt (colored) is quite common cut in and around your lock and hinges. I have seen Federal desks with an inlaid wooden inset where the felt or leather would be. Very attractive and utilitarian with a minimal cost. I hope this helps but if you have any questions just ask.
 
Skivers (flayed  sheepskin) are what was traditionally laid on writing surfaces. If your supplier is talking in the region of 1/16", then he's on the right track (you don't want a thick spongy leather or the pen could go through the paper). Flour paste was again the traditional adhesive for laying leathers and baize. I have seen tables and desks with re-laid leathers stuck down with hide glue and they're an abomination to clear up. Wallpaper paste is a good substitute for flour paste, but it only takes five minutes to make flour paste.

I wouldn't lay baize on a writing surface for the same reason I wouldn't use thick spongy leather.
 
Hi Bob
  I have been getting my leather tops from DCT Leather  http://www.dctleathers.com  for years, no problems. They have special leather and finishes for writing surfaces and offer gold leaf tooling for a small fee.  They will also send an installation guide and samples. I have never tried hide glue on leather, I think it would be hard to control.  Randy
 
Thanks to all of you for your advice and suggestions.  I'm still weighing my options here, and luckily I've got a while to decide since I haven't even started the upper portion of the secretary yet.  I'll update this string when I've crossed the bridge.......

Bob Seibels
 
Bob - Since this has been more than a month ago, it might be a bit too late to chime in.  But if you haven't laid the leather for your writing surface, and you wish to use a modern adhesive that is a litle easier to use than wallpaper paste or fish glue, you can use 3M #77 spray adhesive.  It's available from the home center store, and it could'nt be simpler - just spray the contact side of the leather, and when you've got a good, even coverage, simply stick the leather down.

#77 is quite strong, particularly for a large surface like a writing leather that isn't under too much shear stress.  But it is reversible - just about any non-permeable surface that needs to be removed can be;  one simply gently works one corner loose, and peels the surface back.  The residual adhesive can be easily removed with kerosene, paint thinner, or laquer thinner.

3M also makes an irreversible, permanent spray adhesive - but I wouldn't recommend it.  When 3M says "permanent", they're not kidding!
 
Hello dkeller_nc,
Thanks for your response.  No, I have not laid the leather yet - I haven't even  bought it.  I actually have a can of the 3M #77 in my shop, which I use for sticking sandpaper to granite tiles for sharpening, among many other things.  It sounds like the perfect product to use, and when the time comes, that's what I'll go with.  Good  idea!

Bob Seibels
 
Does the leather generally go to the edge of the battons (left and right) and then between the hinges and lock?
If you are using a water based adhesive, would you seal the wood with coat of shellac first?
I am worried introducing water to one side of the fall front might make it cup, or do the battons prevent that
I assume the front side and and exposed inside (battons etc) are fully finished before you install the leather.
Thanks
 
Bob, if you haven't purchased the leather yet you might want to contact Kittinger (http://www.kittingerfurniture.com/). Our chapter went on a tour of thier factory a few weeks ago. The tour was by the owner, they had a special machine built to do the gold embosing around the edge. They also use real hides that still have the subtle color variations. Real nice. We asked if they would sell just the embosed leather and they said they would.
 
Dan_B said:
Does the leather generally go to the edge of the battons (left and right) and then between the hinges and lock?
If you are using a water based adhesive, would you seal the wood with coat of shellac first?
I am worried introducing water to one side of the fall front might make it cup, or do the battons prevent that
I assume the front side and and exposed inside (battons etc) are fully finished before you install the leather.
Thanks
Click to expand...

Another question, would an 18th century craftsman, instead of taking the time to excavate a recess for leather insert with a hand router, perhaps had his battons 1/16th thicker on the inside of the fall front and then adding a piece of wood between the battons top and bottom to "create" recess. the top and bottom piece would define the size of the recess and perhaps be just wide enough for the lock on the top and the hinges on the bottom.
 
Dan, I'm sorry I couldn't respond to your email; your ISP doesn't play nicely with mine and my reply to you was bounced back.

The majority of the writing surfaces I see (desk falls, writing slopes, library tables pedestal desks etc.) are veneered, so creating the recess for the leather is relatively straight forward and not restricted to any particular area by cleats or battens etc.

The solid timber slant front desks that I have encountered (usually oak) have been executed in one of several ways. The actual leathered area is usually much smaller than the total expanse of the fall and is either recessed into the main board, or just the outline of the area is fielded to ensure the edges of the leather don't present an obstacle.

I have also seen the cleats (battens) forming the end boundaries, and I've also seen falls where the main board is entirely framed, in which case, the main board was made thinner than the surrounding frame to account for the thickness of the leather.

I posted recently on my blog about laying leathers... http://pegsandtails.wordpress.com/2012/05/24/l-for-leather/. I hope the information is of use to some here.  

It's not necessary to seal the recess prior to pasting as the moisture involved is minimal and drys rapidly.
 
Dan_B said:
Thanks so much. I hope my fat fingers did not type my email address incorrectly on your site. ( has happend before)
my correct email is [email protected]. I read your post yesterday and it is a big help and will reread it again when the leather arrives. Your site is very informative.
I am going to try the flour and water paste for adhesive. I will give it a practice try. I am building my first slant top desk but it feels like I am builing 5 as I practice so many new construction features (drawboring the battons to the fall front as latest  example). Must be some cosmic rule that things go easier in practice.
Click to expand...
 
Dan ? and apologies to other members for this ? I received your second email, but am still unable to respond: Your ISP, Comcast, is blocking my replies for some reason. If you have a Yahoo, Hotmail or Gmail account, I would try that in future.
 
I reread you notes on sending you email and see the part where you say you can't get comcast. I must have rushed over that in the beginning. It was my oversight completely.
 
I came across this image of a framed bureau fall as previously mentioned...

http://cdni3.1stdibs.com//archivesD/1stdibs/052410/NickBrockDAL_sr//09/smp_2196.jpg
 
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