Goose neck molding
- Thread starter johnah5
- Start date
John,
When I built a reproduction of a MA highboy (based on Randall O'Donnell's article in FWW #117, 118 and 119) I carved the goose neck molding by hand. In my research I found that this is how it was done in the past. I used a technique described by Phil Lowe (FWW#166) in which you use a "birds-beak" jig on a shaper to hog out a lot of the material. Then you use carving tools to create the finished molding. You can buy expensive custom made cutters to do the work but unless you are planning on making lots of highboys it is probably not the most economical way to go. When I carved mine I was not a very seasoned carver and I still think it came out pretty good.
Good luck,
Brian
When I built a reproduction of a MA highboy (based on Randall O'Donnell's article in FWW #117, 118 and 119) I carved the goose neck molding by hand. In my research I found that this is how it was done in the past. I used a technique described by Phil Lowe (FWW#166) in which you use a "birds-beak" jig on a shaper to hog out a lot of the material. Then you use carving tools to create the finished molding. You can buy expensive custom made cutters to do the work but unless you are planning on making lots of highboys it is probably not the most economical way to go. When I carved mine I was not a very seasoned carver and I still think it came out pretty good.
Good luck,
Brian
John,
The Phil Lowe article is called "An Illustrated Guide to Crown Moldings". I think if you search on that it will come up. I used several different gauges, back bends, straight chisels... If you search on "Curly Cherry Highboy" the Randall O'Donnell highboy will come up (Article 2). I basically copied the molding profile he has. I think I used a 5/20 or 7/20 for the cove portion, I used a flat chisel to do the round over and a back bent gauge on the bead or astragal. Then I used scrapers to clean up some of the facets. However I did want it to have the appearance of being hand carved. I finally did some light sanding on it. It has been a couple of years since it was completed so my memory may not be extremely accurate. I did a couple of poplar or bass wood practice pieces and basically chose the tools that best fit the profile that I drew on the end grain.
I can tell you when I spoke to Randall and he encouraged me to carve it by hand I was very intimidated by the idea. But I found that it wasn't as difficult as I thought it was going to be. It also gives you a real sense of pride when someone finds out that it was all done by hand.
Brian
The Phil Lowe article is called "An Illustrated Guide to Crown Moldings". I think if you search on that it will come up. I used several different gauges, back bends, straight chisels... If you search on "Curly Cherry Highboy" the Randall O'Donnell highboy will come up (Article 2). I basically copied the molding profile he has. I think I used a 5/20 or 7/20 for the cove portion, I used a flat chisel to do the round over and a back bent gauge on the bead or astragal. Then I used scrapers to clean up some of the facets. However I did want it to have the appearance of being hand carved. I finally did some light sanding on it. It has been a couple of years since it was completed so my memory may not be extremely accurate. I did a couple of poplar or bass wood practice pieces and basically chose the tools that best fit the profile that I drew on the end grain.
I can tell you when I spoke to Randall and he encouraged me to carve it by hand I was very intimidated by the idea. But I found that it wasn't as difficult as I thought it was going to be. It also gives you a real sense of pride when someone finds out that it was all done by hand.
Brian
The basic concept for carving curved moldings is buried in the SAPFM e-interview on the Bombe chest. Check it out if you can't find the other references. The base molding was demonstrated vs the gooseneck but the idea is the same. Route the steps that define the shoulders. Backbent gouges are ideal for rounding off the corners or carving beads if the profile has one.
Fitting the miter is a bit unnerving.
Might be a good idea to rough out a few extras. They look good hanging around the shop if you don't need em. You're ahead if you do.
john
Fitting the miter is a bit unnerving.
Might be a good idea to rough out a few extras. They look good hanging around the shop if you don't need em. You're ahead if you do.
john
johnjesseph
Member
johnah5 said:
Restating the question, given period tools only, by what process did the 18th century craftsmen carve curved moldings? I have seen this question asked a bunch, but I have never seen a satisfying answer.
What I am curious about is which would be the reference side, the inside or outside of the curve?? What is the next step, rabbets/ledges, or chamfering? (Here I am picturing analogous steps to the straight molding processes demonstrated by Don McConnell in his writing and DVDs.) What tools did they use for "taking out the trash" as (Randy says)?
I have lots of ideas, but not enough time to try everything...
ttalma
Well-known member
I took a class with Gene Landon, and how he taught us in class was to bandsaw the molding from the block of wood. Then smooth form what would be the top of the the molding when attached as the reference side.
Then make a reverse template out of poster board. (so you could insert it into the molding as you carve it).
1st we established the flats by making little "shelfs" then we put in the profile. We did this all with gouges. The first set I made came out real good and each half only took about 2 hours.
Gene was able to make both halves of his in about 1 1/2 hours. So experiance helps.
But when I was removing the waste I had a mallet and a 7/30 gouge, and the chips were flying!
Then make a reverse template out of poster board. (so you could insert it into the molding as you carve it).
1st we established the flats by making little "shelfs" then we put in the profile. We did this all with gouges. The first set I made came out real good and each half only took about 2 hours.
Gene was able to make both halves of his in about 1 1/2 hours. So experiance helps.
But when I was removing the waste I had a mallet and a 7/30 gouge, and the chips were flying!
Jeff Saylor
Well-known member
I made a router jig very similar to the one Richard McLean describes in FWW October 2000 #144 that my high school kids use for gooseneck moldings with very good success. The only thing I changed from McLean's was that I made rollers on the ends of the rub blocks that attach to the wood outriggers. The advantage of having two followers touching at the same time compared to Glen Hewey's one, I feel, is that you can really maintain a close profile (even a H.S. kid!) The rollers, made of plastic or hardwood, reduce friction and you just zip along in progressive steps to rough out the bulk of the material. Clean-up with a few gouges and scrapers and you have very little to sand- KIDS DON'T LIKE TO SAND!
One thing you have to be careful of though, with two followers you must have very close tolerences to the total width of the molding. We draw the top edge and transfer the total width of the molding with a compass scribing a series of arcs and French curving them in. Your first dry run with the router set up high will tell you if there are any tight spots that need to be addressed before routing.
One thing you have to be careful of though, with two followers you must have very close tolerences to the total width of the molding. We draw the top edge and transfer the total width of the molding with a compass scribing a series of arcs and French curving them in. Your first dry run with the router set up high will tell you if there are any tight spots that need to be addressed before routing.