Finishes on reproduction furniture

klkirkman

Well-known member
Does anyone have any thoughts on the most likely finish material on Period Firniture reproductions made by the production shops of the 50s - 70s ?

I am interested in refinishing a piece and would also welcome hints about the best way to remove the most likely finishes. I am sure there are those who might be put off by the notion of investing time in a mid-quality reproduction, but I do not have time to do everything on my bucket list, and I found a nice dimunitive little desk in nice shape that SWMBO prefers to  our full sized one to fit in a bedroom. I wil probably also replace the brasses with high end ones.

The finish has a high gloss and is quite smooth; my guess is spray lacquer was often used, and I would be inclined to mop with rags soaked in lacquer thinner rather than a paint stripper/remover product, but that may not be the best way to go.

Karl



Karl
 
Karl,  Many years ago , ( early 70s ) I worked at the Kittinger furniture Co. where we built Williamsburg and Newport reproductions.  I subsequently opened my own shop where in the early years I undertook many refinishing jobs.  The finish invariably was nitrocellulose lacquer.  The finish is quite easy to remove and will include your proposed technique with the lacquer thinner and rags, but that should follow the stripping process of using a methyline chloride based stripper.  Depending on what the piece is, you will probably pick the heavy bodied stripper which has parafin wax mixed in to prevent  the material from evaporating and doing the job of softening the lacquer.  The stripper should be applied in a heavy wet coat and will then be easy to scrape off and cleaned with the lacquer thinner and rags. The products mentioned are quite toxic and of course should be done in a well ventilated area with used of rubber gloves that you should be able to pick up at the same place as the other materials. There have been some less toxic strippers to come on the market, but I am not that familiar with them. This forum surely isn't large enough to deliver a treatise on refinishing, and this is always a hot button topic.  In my opinion if you have someone in the area who has a "flow on stripping" system, I would highly recommend that avenue as it is a rather unpleasant process.  Good Luck!  Ross
 
Karl, I agree with Ross the finish is probably lacquer, but in that time frame it could be many other things, I would do a solvent test to be sure. Below is something I wrote for a refinishing class that may help.

I must admit that I strip a lot of furniture, in fact so much that I buy stripper in 55 gallon drums. I have tried many methods and products, including the green versions. I can honestly say that for me nothing has worked as well or as fast as heated, thin, wax release, methylene chloride stripper. I currently use a flow over system where the hot stripper is pumped through a scrub brush and recycled and pumped again. With this system I can strip about 12 chairs an hour, or a dresser in under 20 minutes if not painted, if painted it takes a little longer. Before I used the flow over system I used heated, thin, wax release methylene chloride, scrubbed with saw dust and shavings. These are the steps I used in this system.
1. Spread about 1 inch of shavings and saw dust on a clean concrete floor in an area larger than the item being stripped. This will contain the mess of the stripper.
2. Apply the stripper with a large mop type brush, the goal is to cover the item as fast as possible, you want to keep the item wet by applying over and over until the finish is totally dissolved. You  can tell when the finish is dissolved because the application brush will move the finish around easily. The key here is to let the stripper do the work, and not waste time trying to scrape off the finish and stripper, if you scrap off the stripper before the finish is dissolved you just have to reapply it any way, why not just apply again without scraping.  Pay attention to the nooks and crannies and keep going until the finish is dissolved in these areas.
3. Once the finish is totally dissolved begin to scrub the piece with hands full of shavings and saw dust. Use the shaving like it was steel wool, it will get into all the nook and crannies, it will soak up and remove all of the old finish if you let the stripper do it?s work, it will remove most pigment stain but not dye. Dye would need to be bleached.
4. At this point you neutralize the stripper, what you use depends on the stripper you used. If needed you can dry with more shavings.
5. Sweep up the shavings, if you used enough there will be no mess just sweep and your done.
 
  Four things to note.
1. Some people will recommend using gelled stripper, in my experience the gelling agent dilutes the stripper and makes it weaker and you use much more to get the finish dissolved. The thin wax release stripper when applied releases a thin layer of wax that rises to the surface and helps keep the stripper from evaporating without weakening the stripper.
2. If you don?t have shavings you can buy them as pet bedding at pet stores.
3. Methylene chloride fumes are heavier than air, you need to ventilate at ground level.
4. There is no way to describe the difference between cold and hot stripper if you have not tried it. However you must do it safely. The biggest disadvantage is it makes the stripper evaporate quicker.

I am not recommending any one use these methods, I don?t know if these methods are less safe than any other method. This is just what I do you must make your own decisions.
 
My wife just stripped a highboy I made 20+ years ago.  She used an indoor safe Citristipper.  It has a pleasant citrus odor.  95% of the shellac and oil finish came off with one application. She only waited about one hour after applying before removing with a plastic putty knife.  She then rubbed it down with mineral spirits and there was no grain raising.

Dennis Bork
 
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