Drawer Fronts

H

hschappell

Member
I plan to veneer a drawer front with 1/16" cherry veneer. This is the first time to cut my own veneer. #1 what type of glue would be best to used?. I will use poplar as a substrate.#2  should I use a veneer on the opposite side of the drawer front? #3 would some type of clamping system be the best to afix the veneer?
 
Traditionally, this would be done by hammering the veneer with animal glue. Clamps aren't required with this method.

Counter veneering is a relatively modern concept and is quite unnecessary.
 
I agree with Jack. There are a few youtube videos of the process. You could also find someone in a local chapter to help you. Fairly simple to do, practice on scrap. You can also just use yellow glue and clamp it up with F or handscrew clamps.
Another option is to buy a vacuum pump and bag and two part glue, then learn how to use that. I have used all three methods and prefer hide glue, hammered down.
 
I wouldn't recommend yellow glue, especially for a beginner. If you mess-up, there is no way to fix it. And if you use hide glue [recommended ] and a hammer, make sure the glue is heated. If your new to veneer, I would use clamps until you can get a little time/practice with a hammer. There is a bit of a learning curve with a hammer but once you get the feel for it, works great. At this point you might want to look at the benefits of a toothing plane, not required but adds to adhesion. Shouldn't need veneer on the inside of drawer, different story for a table top, veneer is required on both sides to control warpage.
Randy 
 
Well there you have it HS.
White or yellow glue and clamps (not reversible but you have everything at hand)
Liquid Hide glue and clamps (reversible, glue doesn't creep, probably need to go get liquid hide glue, Your hardware store probably has Franklin's, call ahead to be sure)
Hot hide glue (doesn't creep, don't need clamps, need to get or make a veneer hammer, need a glue pot{small crock pot, coffee warmer, Hold Heet glue pot, about 140 degrees F} glue granules. There is a learning curve.
Vacuum Bag. I was being a bit facetious here but it is a method, albeit expensive. (doesn't creep, no need for clamps, need to get vacuum pump, bag, 2 part glue)

I see knowing how to use hide glue as a great benefit to period furniture making. Rub joints, glue blocks, veneering. It is reversible, accepts stain,

here is a link to This Years Cartouche winner!  Patrick Edwards article from the APF
http://www.wpatrickedwards.com/gluearticle.htm
and also a WoodTreks video of Patrick Edwards on Hide glue
http://woodtreks.com/learn-how-hammer-veneers-hand-tools-inlay-marquetry-hide-glue/1493/

Elwood Blues: This is glue. Strong stuff.
 
Far be it from me to disagree with the above luminaries, but unless you have quarter sawn poplar, veneering only one side is almost guaranteed to warp.

Howard Steier
 
Not long ago I made 5 clock cases. The waist doors were made of mahogany and only veneered on one side. the doors are about 9" x 36" and only supported by the 2 hinges. The original has remained flat since 1799 and my 5 all stayed flat.  My samples and demonstration pieces on pine have also stayed flat. Veneering on both sides was not a typical period practice. This sounds like a topic for a thread/discussion. Have you not veneered both sides, Howard, and had failures? Do you hammer veneer with hot glue? Lots of variables.
In the case of the clock doors the grain of the veneer ran in the same direction as the substrate, if for some reason the grain of the veneer were to run contrary to the grain of the substrate the back would probably need to be veneered as well.
I have to say that toothing does not increase adhesion. It does keep the veneers from slipping around and is a good way to avoid tear out. It actually weakens the glue line but it is still plenty strong for veneer. That is why a jointer plane is used to make glue joints and not a toothing plane.
 

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My experience with poplar is that it moves if only one side is veneered. I have used both hide glue and yellow glue. The clock fronts that you are talking about; were they veneered over poplar or over the same wood the case was made of?

Howard Steier
 
Hi All
 I have seen drawer fronts warp but because of there size, average 4-8", there is usually a reason/ cause if they warp. Green wood used as a substrate, exposure to moisture, etc. The worst I have seen were in floods, although I have seen some doors on English commodes that where stressed out. I have a good example of a French drawer, mahogany on 1/2" knotty pine, veneer on one side. I think the pine was green when the veneer was applied. If the substrate is dry when you veneer, I don't think warping will be a problem unless exposed to moisture.
I think you misunderstood Mike, Toothing planes are used to increase the surface area when gluing, not for joining veneer together.  The extra surface area is a real plus when working oily woods like rosewood. The early 20th century horn chair I am working on not only has toothing marks on the wood frame, but also on the back of the horn veneer.  
Randy    
 
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