Block front chest drawers

H

HSteier

Well-known member
I am attempting a block front chest from Gottshall's book Making Antique Furniture Reproductions
There are two block front drawers topped by a third drawer which has the typical Newport convex/concave shells.
I would like to make the block fronts from full thickness 12/4 mahogany and not by applying blocking to thinner wood.
My question is how do I relieve the drawer fronts to get even margins along the blocking and a truly flat surface in the center relieved area.
I actually made a block front chest with Gene Landon about 15 or 20 years ago and I have forgotten how we did the blocking.
I don't think that bandsawing would work as any slight deviation would be magnified over the width of the drawer.
All help appreciated

Howard Steier
 
Make a cradle/jig that holds all parts in alignment and define the blocking with a router? either electric or manual??
 
HSteier said:
I am attempting a block front chest from Gottshall's book Making Antique Furniture Reproductions
There are two block front drawers topped by a third drawer which has the typical Newport convex/concave shells.
I would like to make the block fronts from full thickness 12/4 mahogany and not by applying blocking to thinner wood.
My question is how do I relieve the drawer fronts to get even margins along the blocking and a truly flat surface in the center relieved area.
I actually made a block front chest with Gene Landon about 15 or 20 years ago and I have forgotten how we did the blocking.
I don't think that bandsawing would work as any slight deviation would be magnified over the width of the drawer.
All help appreciated

Howard Steier
Click to expand...
I have one of these on my bucket list! This is a youtube link to a fellow SAPFM member…
it might be of interest to You.
 
Howard,
I have made 4 B&S bureaus and this is how I made them. Draw the shape / outline on both top and bottom edges of the blank of wood. Using a new and sharp 1/2" band saw blade I made many kerf cuts up to the layout line but 1/8" away. I use a right angle block to hold the board square to the table. Then saw to remove these thin pieces made by the kerf cuts. Finish with chisels, files, rasps, scrapers and sandpaper to the layout lines. I once was at Iron Furnituremakers Shop and I saw that they used a dado blade in a table saw to remove the excess wood between the blocking.

I carved the shells out of the solid block and not added on but you can carved them separately and add them on, Iron Furnituremakers did it this way. An old-timer told me to carve them out of the solid because then they will not "fall off".

Dennis Bork
 
Antiquity said:
Howard,
I have made 4 B&S bureaus and this is how I made them. Draw the shape / outline on both top and bottom edges of the blank of wood. Using a new and sharp 1/2" band saw blade I made many kerf cuts up to the layout line but 1/8" away. I use a right angle block to hold the board square to the table. Then saw to remove these thin pieces made by the kerf cuts. Finish with chisels, files, rasps, scrapers and sandpaper to the layout lines. I once was at Iron Furnituremakers Shop and I saw that they used a dado blade in a table saw to remove the excess wood between the blocking.

I carved the shells out of the solid block and not added on but you can carved them separately and add them on, Iron Furnituremakers did it this way. An old-timer told me to carve them out of the solid because then they will not "fall off".

Dennis
Click to expand...

Antiquity said:
Howard,
I have made 4 B&S bureaus and this is how I made them. Draw the shape / outline on both top and bottom edges of the blank of wood. Using a new and sharp 1/2" band saw blade I made many kerf cuts up to the layout line but 1/8" away. I use a right angle block to hold the board square to the table. Then saw to remove these thin pieces made by the kerf cuts. Finish with chisels, files, rasps, scrapers and sandpaper to the layout lines. I once was at Iron Furnituremakers Shop and I saw that they used a dado blade in a table saw to remove the excess wood between the blocking.

I carved the shells out of the solid block and not added on but you can carved them separately and add them on, Iron Furnituremakers did it this way. An old-timer told me to carve them out of the solid because then they will not "fall off".

Dennis Bork
Click to expand...
Thanks for the help
 
I used a dado sled to waste the center and ends (and the back). carved the concave with a #7 x 20 gouge and planed the convex with a rabbet low angle block plane. Used scrapers to smooth the curve. Strongly advise using hold down toggle clamps on the sled to avoid mistakes/disasters.
 
Dennis,
I would like to try carving a convex shell from the solid but when I carve one on a backing board, the chisels cut into the backing boad when I shape the perimeter. How do you avoid this? Incannel ground chisels? fingernail ground chisels? Any advice would be appreciated.
 
I had this problem and I knew I would. So I left the background a little thicker (1/32-1/16") and then re-leveled the background to get rid of the marks. Yes, it is a lot of work and that is probably why must woodworkers carve the shells separately and then add them on.
Dennis Bork
 
Antiquity said:
I had this problem and I knew I would. So I left the background a little thicker (1/32-1/16") and then re-leveled the background to get rid of the marks. Yes, it is a lot of work and that is probably why must woodworkers carve the shells separately and then add them on.
Dennis Bork
Click to expand...
So that brings the question....on original chests were the shells applied or all three carved from/onto one board?
 
Perhaps both methods depending upon their skill level. Do whatever is easiest for you. Or try the harder method and test your skill level. You will never know until you try! I have seen very skilled carvers apply the carved shells.
Dennis Bork
 
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