Advice on Stabilizing a tree section

M

Michael Armand

Active member
I have a 4" thick section of a 234 year old Pine tree that is going to be a  timeline display. The section has small checks (cracks) from the movement of the wood. Any ideas on how to stabilize the them and what type of finish to apply on it. I would like to fill them with sawdust and glue if possible.                      Thanks,  Mike
 
Hi Mike
  I need to know the moisture content and how long the tree has been cut down.
  Randy
 
Mr Bohn,
      The tree has been down for 6-8 months. I don't have a probe to test it but my digital meter reads anywhere from 10-18 depending on where it is placed.  I don't think it was run through a kiln and at this point think it would do more damage than good because of it being a cross section. The humidity stays fairly high down here in Louisiana and it will be diplayed indoors when finished. I notice the checks opening up a little on some days and closing some on other days depending on the humidity in the shop.
 
Hi Mike
  Was the tree still growing when it was cut down or was the tree dead?    Are you going to display it on edge or flat?  How wide is it?    I'm thinking if it's still green it might crack, or you may want to put a re leaf cut in it. Is there any chance you can send a photo?

Randy
 
Your wood will move seasonally with the surrounding moisture content in the air. Your grain lines will want to straighten out and so the checks, cracks, and splits. Each year it will shrink slightly more than it will swell seasonally. Their are substances to coat the wood but they only delay the inevitable.
 
Jeff @ Randy,
              Thanks for your input. The tree was struck by lightning and could not be saved. There was some rott on one side at the bottom of the tree. It is 42" without the 2" bark. It will be displayed on an easel. I will make two 2-1'2 by 1-1/2 deep grooves in the back to hold the easel legs running from top center anging out at the bottom. This won't be a tight fit for movement. Would it be advantagious to soak it with epoxy, varnish, oil, glue, anything that would slow down the movement? Any comments welcome. I am probably fighting a losing battle but want to do the best thing possible to keep it together as long as possible. I will be putting the bark back on it after all the cutting is done. 
                                                                                                                Mike
 
Mike
  There are a couple ways to go about this. You can treat it as lumber and find someone to dry it for you or you can treat it as a submerged artifact and soak it in PEG.This piece sounds like it's still full of sap and just as Jeff mentioned it's going to move. Eventually it will look like a pie with a piece missing. If you can see a weak side in the grain I would put a re leaf cut from the edge to the center.There is no way to keep the out side rings from cracking short of removing the inside [pith area] rings. Making it look like a wheel.I have done 2 of these in my past, both bigger than yours. I'm a little worried about the easel for two reasons, first, if the public can get at it, I'm not sure an easel is stable enough. I can't count how many roped off chairs I have fixed  in museums. Next ed , By cutting groves in the back, you will be making a track of lest resistance. As the the piece dries, I am sure it will crack along these lines. I did one of each, standing up-right and one laying flat. the up-right was anchored to 1 1/4 ply with [L] shaped lag bolts along the outside edge.For about the first 5 years I had to adjust the upper bolts to allow for shrinkage.  I made the plywood look like the state of Minnesota.  The other was used as a coffee table and set on plywood with a single pin [ about 1"x2 1/2] set into the pith to keep it from moving.
  If you decide to coat the surface, make sure you do both sides the same.
I am sure I left something out but have to get back to work.  Good Luck    Randy
 
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