Author Topic: Worm holes in Butternut  (Read 4595 times)

Tom M

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Re: Worm holes in Butternut
« Reply #15 on: December 16, 2019, 11:22:37 AM »
The upper case went together easily once I made some plywood 90° clamp blocks to align the dovetailed top to the sides.  Prior to making these I was having a difficult time keeping the top and sides square. At this stage the only glue joint is the dovetail at the top.  Later I will peg the shelves.

To complete the top, I needed to round-over the front edge of the upper shelf (block plane and files) then form the molding on the middle “spoon” shelf.  This detail for hanging spoons took a lot of work for a feature which will never be used for its intended purpose – but it looks so cool!

When I was modeling the cabinet in CAD, the spoon shelf caused me the most problems – mainly because it took a while to figure out how it was made.  Once I was able to figure it out, I came up with a way to model it (which was easy once understood).  Breaking it down into steps made the work straight forward, but a little time consuming.

I started by planing the fillet on the bottom of the shelf.  This was ¾” x 1/8”. I then used a block plane to round the bottom elliptical shape finishing with a shoulder plane. Next up was the router table with a ½” cove bit.  (I don’t really hate the router when table mounted.) I then used my block plane and files to round over the front edge.

To lay out the spacing for the “dovetail” cuts I used two dividers.  One set at 3/8” and one at 1 ½”. Because there is not much material left to pencil a visual cut line, I decided to make a little saw guide. This worked better than expected. There were 40 cuts to be made!  After sawing I chiseled out the waste, and then spent almost 2 hours paring and filing all the curving edges.To complete the shelves, I routed the 3/8” coves for the plate grooves.

Next up? The face frames get mortise and tenons.

It took FOUR DAYS to get a reply to my last post… Come on people!
« Last Edit: July 27, 2020, 07:30:31 PM by Tom M »
Tom Meiller, SAPFM Member #684

Rglass

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Re: Worm holes in Butternut
« Reply #16 on: December 16, 2019, 06:46:18 PM »
Tom-
I can’t believe this has not generated more posts. I know it takes a lot of time to document your progress with this level of detail and it is greatly appreciated.  The pictures tell a thousand words.  I read this very quickly over lunch without logging in so I did not see the pictures until I got home from work. I can imagine it was a very tedious process to chisel out the waste for the spoons.  Looks like it will be awesome once finished.  Good idea with the 90 degree brackets. I am also liking the character of the wormy wood. 
SAPFM members - this deserves your attention. POST!
Russ

macchips4

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Re: Worm holes in Butternut
« Reply #17 on: December 17, 2019, 09:41:24 AM »
Did you use butternut for the wedges?

Tom M

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Re: Worm holes in Butternut
« Reply #18 on: December 17, 2019, 09:23:14 PM »
Yes, I used butternut for the wedge, and I can see that a harder wood for the wedges would have been smart.

No update on the project for today as I've transitioned into last minute make a Christmas gift mode!

But I will address a couple items from earlier...

I have no formal CAD training, but am a mechanical engineer.  I've messed around in NX at work - mostly for design analysis. I asked for training for years but never got it.  We have dedicated designers so why train the engineer?  I purchased TurboCAD about 20 years ago and have upgraded three times.  It is a complicated program and I have a love/hate relationship with it. Most of the hate comes from no training, and poor documentation (there is a 2000+ page manual...).  I used my personal copy at work for years and would then send a STP file to my designer to start him off.  I would be willing to bet many of your cars/truck have evap canisters that started life in a TurboCAD model!

I actually had the puppy in the shop for an hour today.  She just laid on the floor a couple feet from the table saw chomping on some butternut plane shavings. She stuck around with the dust collector and table saw running!

Someone asked if Gene had defined if the tenons were wedged in his notes.  (That person never met Gene or took one of his classes!)  Gene's handouts were very light on info.  There might be a sketch with some dimensions, and tracings of moldings, but not much else.  You would get all the other knowledge from the classes he taught.

There was also a question about the original.  I think Gene based the design off an original walnut stepback upper cabinet he had (picture). I'm attaching a picture of Gene's in-process, and competed.



Tom Meiller, SAPFM Member #684

ChuckH

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Re: Worm holes in Butternut
« Reply #19 on: December 18, 2019, 09:52:39 PM »
Tom,
First of all, nice "Dog on it" shot of Abby. Just don't leave her alone in the shop with that hutch!
Speaking of shops, in one of your future posts you have to tell us about those benches I see in the background.


The hutch is progressing nicely. I'm very impressed with your scratch stock results. I've only recently gained enough confidence to use that process on one of my projects. I too hate routers. They scare the bejeebers out of me. I own two of them (inherited) and all the bits I suppose you would ever want, but I never use them.


That was me asking all the questions about your modelling software and Gene Landon. Thanks for the pictures of Gene's version of the hutch. I smiled when I saw how he finished his with wear marks around the doors and drawers. From what I understand he liked to his finish his projects so they looked like they were 100 years old. I remember reading that he would even scrub the bottoms of the foot on his cabriole legs with a brick to make them look like they had been dragged around. Don't know if that's true or just urban legend.
Much of the German furniture was painted like Gene's, but I can't imagine you have any intentions of painting yours.


I'm enjoying your build and appreciate your efforts in posting.


-Chuck     
   
If all else fails, play dead.  -Red Green

JBRowe

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Re: Worm holes in Butternut
« Reply #20 on: December 19, 2019, 10:59:20 PM »
Nice work, Tom, and the makings of an article for the APF Journal if you'd like to offer it.

ttalma

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Re: Worm holes in Butternut
« Reply #21 on: December 29, 2019, 11:57:41 AM »
Looking good so far! Now that the Christmas gifts are done (?) I'm looking forward to an update !
There are 10 types of people in this world, those that understand binary and those that don't.

Tom M

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Re: Worm holes in Butternut
« Reply #22 on: February 13, 2020, 10:39:54 AM »
Sorry for so long since the last post.  I had some last minute Christmas gifts to make and then decided to finish another project that I've worked on and off for four years.


One project was a small display case for my son which was designed to fit into an Ikea (ugh) cabinet he has for his entertaiment center. I used a piece of poplar which was hard as a rock and painted it black to match the Ikea (ugh).  It came out nice but the cost for the glass and shipping across country made it a rather expensive project! In hind site I really should have used plywood for the case and some of that hot melt glue veneer for the exposed part. It would have been much lighter and easier to work.  The only thing you see if the front as the cabinet is 12.5x12.5 and the cubby hole is 13x13...


I started a variation of a pie safe for our kitchen back at the end of 2015. The only glued-up board is the drawer bottom.  All but the top was beautiful clear white pine.  I think the top might have been red pine. Earlier this year I glued-up the door and made the drawer.  Then lastly I made the moldings.  The top's molding were carved or scraped. I finished it with milk paint and shellac. For the color we decided on Barn Red with a base of black. Black and mustard would be used on some of the moldings.


I really enjoyed the painting process. After applying the black undercoat I started painting the top red.  I stopped at this point because I thought the combination of the red top with the black cabinet looked good.  So I ended up painting the rest of the cabinet red (so it would show through under the black), and then black again. I used the mustard color sparingly as my wife did not like it. However after sanding and rubbing out the finish followed by some shellac she loved it (happy wife is my goal.)  I then turned the knobs, which was the first time I've used my lathe in years (excellent video by Phil Lowe: [size=78%]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TyV85eQEWQE&list=PLVKzAyot6NChVgy3HHugHxN1mBRJS6c7u&index=6&t=0s[/size].) I used hand made iron hinges from Horton Brass. I moved it to the kitchen this past weekend.


And that brings me back to the Stepback Hutch.  After cleaning up my shop I laid out all of the face frame mortise and tenons.  I then spent some time fine tuning my mortise machine and tenoning jigs. Next up will be a lot of machining!



Tom Meiller, SAPFM Member #684

daveknuth

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Re: Worm holes in Butternut
« Reply #23 on: February 14, 2020, 05:23:27 PM »
Well done. Very cute.

Tom M

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Re: Worm holes in Butternut
« Reply #24 on: February 20, 2020, 03:25:23 PM »
I bought a used Delta benchtop mortiser several years ago and have only used it once a couple years ago for doors in our master bathroom cabinets. I’ve chopped mortises before on several chairs, a sofa, and a couple case pieces, but I sure don’t get pleasure from it.  Before starting this project, I got out the machine and played around a little before mortising the face frames.  I found out two things that were important.  The first was I needed to clamp the wider boards to the fence.  Hand pressure wasn’t enough to keep things from moving.  This greatly increased the time (clamp/unclamp for each plunge) but gave much more consistent results. The second thing was tuning up the chisel.  This reduced the force required and kept the chisel from clogging.  I followed most of the tips from a FWW video (https://www.finewoodworking.com/2006/06/15/sharpen-a-mortiser-bit).


With the mortise machine tuned up and the tenon jig set just right I was able to make quick work of the machining.  I decided to start with the upper cabinet. I had left the stiles wider on the outside edge for flush trimming to the cabinet, but because of the side bead I needed to fit them before assembling the face frame. I ended up clamping the face frame in the best position possible, and then pegged the top rail to the cabinet.  This allowed me to dissemble the face frame and trim the sides.  Once glued-up I could relocate it with the pegs.  Before gluing the face frame, I drilled holes for pegs. I did the glue up yesterday afternoon.  That is a pretty big glue surface – all around the cabinet, and then gluing and hammer home fifteen pegs. Of course, the glue was already gelling before I had set the face frame on the cabinet. (It was 21 degrees out and my shop was 63.)   I ended up having to use a lot of clamps to try and pull the face frame tight.  I’m not sure how well this worked, but “it is what it is” (which is what our mold engineer used to say when the parts didn’t meet the drawing!)


After getting all of this done, I realized I forgot to run a side bead on the lower rail. Luckily, my LN 66 beader had the same size cutter. I was able to scrape the bead up to about 2 inches from each end. I used a bench chisel and dental pick and some fine sandpaper to complete the bead.
 


Someone previously asked about my workbenches.  The one seen in the picture of the completed face frame came from an old childhood friend of my fathers. The oak toolbox (Union) was my dad’s when he was an apprentice at Kodak in the 1950s. The “leather” Gerstner was my Great Grandfather’s (who died the year before I was born.)  When I got it after my dad passed away, I found tools (Starrett and Brown & Sharpe) which had my Great-Great Grandfather’s name etched on them.  Pretty cool!
Tom Meiller, SAPFM Member #684

ttalma

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Re: Worm holes in Butternut
« Reply #25 on: February 21, 2020, 01:53:55 PM »
Looking great!
I'm still building pantry shelves out of plywood (UGH!)


Nice bandsaw BTW!
There are 10 types of people in this world, those that understand binary and those that don't.

Tom M

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Re: Worm holes in Butternut
« Reply #26 on: February 21, 2020, 02:14:05 PM »
For reference Tim sold me the bandsaw when he found a bigger one :)

Tom Meiller, SAPFM Member #684

Tom M

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Re: Worm holes in Butternut
« Reply #27 on: February 27, 2020, 08:59:31 AM »
When attaching the upper face frame, I glued and pegged it in place. This took some time and the glue gelled quick. For the lower face frame, I clamped it, and after the glue set, I drilled and pegged it. This worked much better as I was able to get glue squeeze out along most of the edge
 
Once I trimmed the pegs and carved the bead detail into them, I set the top cabinet on the lower cabinet – very exciting!  I think the next step is prep boards for the backs.
 
On Gene’s hutch he has 3/8” offset doors and used rat tail hinges which get mortised into the side of the door.  The only part of the hinge you see is the “tail”. For the doors he used brass pulls with a latch.  He used the same pulls for the drawers. For the drawers I prefer the early style pull and plate that Bess Naylor used on the step-backs she built.
 
I think I want to see more of the blacksmith door hinges that you get with an inset mounted door. I found one source I liked (http://www.sevenpinesforge.com/products/rat-tail-hinge/). If I do inset doors, I’ll add side beads to the stiles to add a little detail. I was concerned at first that having inset doors would require me to do inset drawers as well but then I noticed several projects which have inset doors with lipped drawers. One was Gene’s last project – a Kas he built for a class at Olde Mill. Gene passed away before the Kas was completed and painted (Bess at Olde Mill did the finishing). I was visiting Gene’s wife when Bess delivered it, and I was able to assist in assembling it.  It wasn’t until this past fall that I was able to locate the blacksmith hardware and mount the door.  There you go – inset door and lipped drawer!
 
After completing my painted cabinet for the kitchen I’m thinking I may just turn similar knobs for the doors and drawers and use wood latches for the doors.  It would certainly be cheaper, but the brass might look nicer.  Any opinions?
 
Pictures:
1) Face frame glue-up
2) Face frame assembled and tenon pegged
3) Face Frame glued and clamped to cabinet
4) Upper and Lower cabinets
5) Gene’s door and drawer pulls
6) Bess’s drawer pulls
7) Gene’s Kas
Tom Meiller, SAPFM Member #684

ttalma

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Re: Worm holes in Butternut
« Reply #28 on: March 04, 2020, 11:38:46 AM »
I would use wood with the rat tail hinges. Or brass H hinges with brass pulls. I don't think I have ever seen brass with iron hinges. I'm sure it's out there I just don't recall seeing it!
There are 10 types of people in this world, those that understand binary and those that don't.

Tom M

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Re: Worm holes in Butternut
« Reply #29 on: March 07, 2020, 10:39:10 AM »
I pulled out the remaining four wide boards which were left for the backs. I was able to layout the boards such that I could use three nice clear pieces for the back of the top, and three boards (with a 1 ½” piece glued to one board) with some big knots holes (and some wonderful crotch regions – that will never be seen).  After planing to 7/8”, and then hand planing and cutting the tongue and groove on bottom backs I realize the rebates I cut were ¾” deep (I remember doing that for a reason – meaning not 7/8” deep - but I don’t remember why!)  I took them down to ¾” and hand planed them again.


For the bottom boards I used a Greenfield 7/8 T&G plane (the style with two blades).  I had sharpened this previously but never used it on a project. On the first couple of boards I had a difficult time cutting the tongues because the inside kept jamming with chips. After playing around I found it worked much better if I used short strokes so that the shavings would break apart.  I switched to my Stanley 48 plane for the upper boards. This worked so much better, and now the nice wooden plane with two blades and wedges will probably sit on a shelf from now on.


On the front side of the upper back boards I planed an astragal using a nice plane a friend gave me several years ago.  He had modified it specifically for cutting astragals on tongue and groove boards. My wife questioned why I was adding this detail to the inside of the cabinet. I told her because it was very easy, I have the plane, and because I wanted to!


I decided to hold off on attaching the backs to the cabinets until after I have the drawers fitted.  It just seems this will be easier if I have access from the back.


Yesterday I made decisions on what pieces to use for the drawer fronts.  I previously had marked four potential pieces – all with oval knots in the center where the pull will go. I rough cut these and then went though my remaining smaller boards to get wood for the sides and backs of the drawers. I already had a 14+” wide board long enough to get the drawer bottoms without glue-up.


Gene’s step back was done in pine and painted. The original he had (upper) was walnut. Mine is butternut. I decided to just use butternut because I had enough of it. Therefore, the lower shelves, the backs, and the drawer parts will all be butternut. I’m not sure this would have been done 250 years ago, but then again if they had a butternut tree, and didn’t have pine they might have done the same thing.


 
Pictures
1) Upper back boards
2) Lower backs fitted
3) Greenfield Tongue and Groove plane
4) Stanley 48
5) Drawer fronts and drawer bottom boards
 
I was really hoping writing this "blog" would get more traffic on the Forum.  Doesn't appear to be working...

Tom Meiller, SAPFM Member #684