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Finishing / Re: Finish on a Bombe' Chest
« Last post by Antiquity Period Designs, Ltd. on December 16, 2020, 05:15:36 PM »
There are many ways to finish a piece and all are good. This is what I did for 30 years for my customers.

Wet the wood with distilled water, let dry and fine sand to nock down the whiskers. You may have to to this more than one time. I used water base aniline dyes from Woodworkers Supply. Then a coat or two of dark shellac which gave some age to the wood. Then several coats of either tung oil varnish or water base varnish. Yes, the water base varnish is not authentic but it dries fast and has no odor and I did not have to rub out the top coat.

Which ever method you do just practice on scrap wood first.

Dennis Bork
Finishing / Re: Finish on a Bombe' Chest
« Last post by CBWW on December 16, 2020, 03:53:32 PM »
Thanks for posting that Tom. 

Building a Bombe is no small undertaking and I would hate to see you mess up the finish.  Building it is only half the job.  Not knowing what your skill set is, what materials you have access to, and what you are comfortable doing, makes it difficult to give advice.  Plus everyone has different ideas of what is right and wrong and good and bad.

After looking at that attached article, I have some thoughts that may or may not help.  He starts by sealing the wood which is fine.  But then talks about a wire brush and 400 grit and walnut husks for color.  Sealing the wood, in theory, is to get the color to absorb evenly.  To much of it sealed and no color gets absorbed, to little sealed and the color gets absorbed to much.  Wire brushing the wood after it being sealed? I wouldnt do that.  What if you expose new unsealed wood then the color hits it and you go dark?  Sanding with 400?  you are just burnishing the wood making less color get absorbed.  Walnut husks?  never.  Everything I do needs to be predictable and repeatable.   You also cant adjust anything color wise with that hence the different color crest rail and splat in the photo.  Go to W.D. Lockwood and order a few colors.  I get water stains from them.  Your stain is now repeatable and can be adjusted.  Whenever I have sealed anything, water stain rarely penetrates the way I like or better yet what my clients want.  Especially after something is stripped.  I will then usually use a pigmented stain(depending on what it is) or usually alcohol dye. 

What I wouldn't do is sand the case past 150(depends on wood figure), or apply water stain directly on the case, or use walnut husks.  I also dont think the oil bw coats does anything and it does not help with adhesion.  I would be careful with orange shellac as I have had it go to "orange" .   If you are going to glaze anything or highlight areas/cracks etc.  Do a test sample if you are using shellac.  I use Mohawk products a lot and some of their products dont work with alcohol based products.   In sanding shellac- use 3M gold 220 or 240. 

Can you pad shellac?  if so, you can color the entire piece this way with tinted shellac. 

Hope this helps.
Finishing / Re: Finish on a Bombe' Chest
« Last post by Tom M on December 16, 2020, 07:00:37 AM »
Attached is the article - a lot easier to show it than explain it.  I used this process on my breakfast table and was very pleased.
It's pretty sad when no one (except me) sent congratulations to David Lamp for the 2021 Cartouche Award. Not even a SAPFM board member. This never happened years ago. I guess it just shows that SAPFM is dying and/or members don't care or know what the Award is all about.

Dennis Bork
Finishing / Re: Finish on a Bombe' Chest
« Last post by CBWW on December 15, 2020, 11:37:24 AM »

Can you elaborate on what that process is?  I dont subscribe to FWW mag.
Finishing / Re: Finish on a Bombe' Chest
« Last post by Tom M on December 15, 2020, 09:03:07 AM »
Check out the FWW 168 (Feb. 2004) article: "A finish that adds 200 years".
Finishing / Re: Finish on a Bombe' Chest
« Last post by CBWW on December 14, 2020, 02:59:49 PM »
What do you want it to look like?  My 2 cents-  BLO is a waste of time.  Asphaltum?  thats roofing tar?  No way.  Lye?  cant control it.  If I wanted it to look like a period piece, I would seal the entire piece with blonde shellac.  Sand it way back between coats.  You are basically filling the pores this way.  It may sound time consuming but its not bad.  Then I would spray dye stain(alcohol dye) on top of this slowly building color/removing color in certain areas.  A turbine HVLP is probably less in price than your material cost.  Overspray with the correct settings with dye is close to zero.  You could pad color if you wanted but its slower.  When the color is where you want it, top coat with shellac, rub out with steel wool then wax. 

Pete Aleksa   
Finishing / Finish on a Bombe' Chest
« Last post by macchips4 on December 14, 2020, 11:05:48 AM »
I'm getting near the point of finishing a mahogany bombe chest of drawers. I was thinking of just using multiple coats of BLO and then a dark wax. But I came across some sites mentioning of Asphaltum as a stain/aging step....Also some mentions of using lye to age the mahogany....After all this work I don't want to just slap a coat of poly on it..........So I was wondering..."What would you do or use" to finish a bombe chest???? Thanks in advance for any replies or ideas...
Congratulations to David Lamb for the Cartouche Award! And that's a beautiful piece of furniture.

Dennis Bork
Chesapeake Chapter / Announcing our Next Virtual Meeting (17 Dec 2020)
« Last post by Mark Maleski on December 05, 2020, 10:00:38 AM »
Hello fellow SAPFM members! We're pleased to invite you to our next virtual Chesapeake chapter meeting which will occur on Thursday, 17 December 2020 @ 8:00 pm (eastern) via Zoom.  All SAPFM members are invited, regardless of where you live.  We have planned two topics which we will cover over a 1 hour meeting duration:
 - Limond Grindstaff: Building a Benjamin Randolph Open Armchair (aka easy chair) from a class @ George Slack's shop;
 - Matt Pincus: Building an 18th-century candle box

To sign up, you must send an email to [email protected] with a request to participate.  Upon receipt, we will send you the Zoom link and password (please give us at least a day to send our reply).  If you haven't participated in a Zoom call before, you can click the link upon receipt to verify your system is compatible. We can have up to 100 participants on the call, so I don't anticipate turning anyone away.

We have room for one more topic (to extend the duration to 1.5 hours), so please let me know if you are interested in giving a presentation.   

Mark Maleski
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