The Question of a Suitable Marking Device

Rick Yochim

Well-known member
All,

My question relates to the marking tool or writing device you have found that best creates a clean line when marking out molding profiles on end grain and/or transferring or freehand drawing designs onto oddly shaped stock.

I have yet to get beyond my #3 pencil and my 5mm mechanical pencil with a hard lead. These work fine for me in most situations, but sometimes when the mark is too light (grainy wood, end grain etc.) I get a sloppy fuzzy line when I press harder. Don’t like that.

I've tried fine point Sharpies with some success but the tips seem to break apart before they run out of ink. I do like the sharpness of an ink line when sticking moldings or sawing profiles because they are easier to see. I just can't find the right pen.

I'm open to trying anything so any and all success stories here are gratefully appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Rick Yochim
 
I have three mechanical drafting pencils that I use. All with differant hardness in leads. I have 6H, 4H & 2B hardness leads. The pencils I have are a ALVIN "Scott" B/2 made in Italy, KOH-I-NOOR #5612C made in China & a TELEDYNE POST 38 MG 010. The other item I have is a barrel sharpener for sharpening the leads

All of these work fine when marking out wood. I like them because they hold a sharp point and have the ability in extending the lead into tight places. The one drawback with these are you need to retract the lead before putting into you shirt pocket. Nothing like bending over and getting stabbed.

Most of the drawing supplies should be able to be found in a good quality Hobby store that carry drawing equipment and artists supplies and on line.

I hope this helps.
 
I am pretty sure John Goddard favored the KOH-I-NOOR #5612C while Duncan Phyfe was a TELEDYNE POST 38 MG 010 man. The Seymours leaned more toward the ALVIN "Scott" B/2 but were also known to use a #2 Ticonderoga pencil in a pinch.
Sorry, couldn't resist.
Try drawing the profile on masking tape or paper and sticking it to the end of the wood, you should be able to plane right through it and the marks should show up fairly easily. I usually just use a #2 pencil in the shop and squint.
Mike
 
I also use a mechanical pencil - in my case 0.5 mm lead diameter Pentel, with HB lead.  But - I always plane the end grain of the board that I'm going to cut the molding in, as it gives a far better surface to pencil the line onto, and the resulting line is much easier to see on dark woods like mahogany.
 
Rick, I have found recently that glasses help me to see lines that aren't there or at least weren't there before.
Seriously I don't think a pencil line is fine enough. Knife lines are the best. How to highlight them is the question.
 
I recently had one of those Captain Klink  (Verrrry Interrresting) moments in my shop... I gotta ya tell that doesnt happen very often. I found myself having to modify a piece of mahogany that had some shellac on the end grain. I remembered that prior to the shellac, the knife line was not easy to see at all because it followed the grain. After the shellac, it showed up quite easily. Applying finish before knife layout is not a practice that you would want to use very often but a bit of shellac or some spit just might help if you cant find any other way to see what you're marking.  If you're a Master, use shellac; if you're an apprentice, just go with the spit.

Woodcraft had some discount Swiss Made Marking knives recently for under $10. I picked up a few of them and they worked well although they are a bit small in the hand. I used them to layout some carving lines and then they served very well as a skew in some tight places... Once the tool is in your hand, use it any way you can. Al Breed taught me that sound advice.
John
 
Thanks all for the tips. I've seen the KOH I NOOR mechanical pencils that Rich suggests so I'll take a closer look at them as a replacement for my cheapie. I also like the idea of marked out masking tape and cutting right through them. A clever idea that I'll also try. I will probably stop experimenting with ink markers. 

Really the problem is twofold. Making crisp lines, and then being able to see them.  I use marking knives in laying out dovetails, rabbit and dado lines etc. on  flat stock and have found that highlighting them with a pencil really helps. But the irregular lines of molding profiles on endgrain and drawn lines on irregularly shaped objects are another matter. Planing the end grain and wetting it is a good practice too. Not sure about using bodily fluids, though. 

And Jeff, I'm glad to hear you've now joined us in wearing glasses. Just remember, big shop = lot's of places to put them down and then forget where they are.  Of this aspect of period furniture making, I am confident.

Cheers,

Rick       
 
Rick - Just an opinion here, but pencil lines drawn on the end grain of a board to show a molding profile that you're using hollows and rounds to shape to is, in my opinion, the best way to do it.  Knifed lines are pretty much required for joinery such as dovetails and M&Ts, but just not needed for molding profiles, since something approximating the desired profile is OK  - it's not like the profile has to fit something else like the two halves of a dovetail joint does.

For that reason, I might suggest getting a 0.5mm mechanical pencil (any brand will do - Pentel, Kohinoor, etc..., or even "house brand") and some colored 0.5mm pencil leads.  They come in a rainbow, and white leads might be highly appropriate for what you're trying to do.
 
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