Does anyone know of a source for a short oil phenolic resin brushing varnish? All I seem to be able to find are urethane based. I can find a spar (long oil) phenolic resin varnish at marine suppliers, but I need a harder short oil varnish in order to finish it appropriately. I believe the Waterlox is such a varnish, but it has been highly diluted so it is a wiping varnish and would take many coats to build a film.
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Source wanted for a Phenolic resin short oil varnish
- Thread starter tgober01
- Start date
Mo Yarborough
Well-known member
I have seen it for sale at several yacht restoration suppliers. I have included a link to Jamestown
Distributors for a product called "Original"made by Interlux.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=4160&familyName=Interlux+Original+Superspar+Varnish+
Distributors for a product called "Original"made by Interlux.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=4160&familyName=Interlux+Original+Superspar+Varnish+
Mickey Callahan
Well-known member
Behlen makes a short oil, phenolic resin varnish. They call it Rock Hard Table Top Varnish.
Mickey
Mickey
I have used a phenolic short oil varnish for 25 years, and have always been happy with the results. I like the amber color which helps duplicate old finishes. I found it to be very hard and rubs out very well to either a satin or high gloss finish. I have had good success with an alkyd varnish, but prefer the former. I have never been happy with any kind of urethane (called polyurethane) varnish as it was not as clear, nor could it be rubbed to my satisfaction. So far, it looks like my only choice is a Waterlox, but it is highly diluted and requires many coats to get to a rubbing stage. Does anyone use an alkyd varnish (not "fortified" with urethane) that they like?
Hi tgober01
I agree, never found a good place to use polys. If you're working on furniture may I suggest shellac. It's more forgiving than varnish, easy to repair, and gives you control of color through out the entire finishing process. Also rubs out well. If you need a more durable finish, shellac is an excellent base for most finishes.
Randy
I agree, never found a good place to use polys. If you're working on furniture may I suggest shellac. It's more forgiving than varnish, easy to repair, and gives you control of color through out the entire finishing process. Also rubs out well. If you need a more durable finish, shellac is an excellent base for most finishes.
Randy
Hi Kirk
That's kind of a trick question. Normally I use a couple coats, sometimes three. The first thinned out. Remember, there not really coats because each layer melts into the last. And if you're brushing shellac I like to coat once in the morning and a second before I leave the shop at night. Coats to close together can wrinkle up. If that happens, walk away, let it dry, and it should level itself out.
So here's the tricky part, lets say your using black walnut and it has a strip of sap wood in it. With shellac you can add color to the shellac and brush, pad for better control, the area to correct the color. With most finishes you need to have the color right before you start to finish, but with shellac color can be added anytime, through out the entire finishing process. If the area is small, using dry powders, dip your finger tip in the powder, wet the surface lightly with a pad, and add color to the surface with your finger. Then lightly hit the area again to lock it in. You're now French Patching. And if the color is not right, simply add a little alcohol to the pad and erase and try again. With walnuts,mahogany's, and other dark woods I start by using an orange, sometimes red powders and build on that. Reading a little color theory comes in handy at this point. Before adding a different top coat I like to scratch the surface with 4/0 steel wool to create a mechanical bond rather than just a chemical bond. With practice, patina can become a process rather than a reaction of time. This can get a lot more technical but this is a good place to start.
You don't know if you can do something until you try.
Regards, Randy
That's kind of a trick question. Normally I use a couple coats, sometimes three. The first thinned out. Remember, there not really coats because each layer melts into the last. And if you're brushing shellac I like to coat once in the morning and a second before I leave the shop at night. Coats to close together can wrinkle up. If that happens, walk away, let it dry, and it should level itself out.
So here's the tricky part, lets say your using black walnut and it has a strip of sap wood in it. With shellac you can add color to the shellac and brush, pad for better control, the area to correct the color. With most finishes you need to have the color right before you start to finish, but with shellac color can be added anytime, through out the entire finishing process. If the area is small, using dry powders, dip your finger tip in the powder, wet the surface lightly with a pad, and add color to the surface with your finger. Then lightly hit the area again to lock it in. You're now French Patching. And if the color is not right, simply add a little alcohol to the pad and erase and try again. With walnuts,mahogany's, and other dark woods I start by using an orange, sometimes red powders and build on that. Reading a little color theory comes in handy at this point. Before adding a different top coat I like to scratch the surface with 4/0 steel wool to create a mechanical bond rather than just a chemical bond. With practice, patina can become a process rather than a reaction of time. This can get a lot more technical but this is a good place to start.
You don't know if you can do something until you try.
Regards, Randy
I would like to add one thing... R Bohn is spot on with the advice BUT to much shellac under a hard or harder topcoat WILL cause problems down the road. If you are going to put shellac under something, keep it as thin as possible. It also depends on what the top coat actually is and how hard etc. Putting a hard finish over a soft is "no,no".
Good point CBWW, I should also mention that if you start out French Polishing and decide to switch top coats, you could be in for some trouble. The oil used in polishing will cause adhesion problems with the top coat. Like I said, it can get a lot more technical, but for period reproductions, shellac is the answer.
I spent some time with the late George Frank and he told me " The only difference between a good woodworker and a bad one is that, one can hide there mistakes". Shellac lets you do that.
Regards
Randy
I spent some time with the late George Frank and he told me " The only difference between a good woodworker and a bad one is that, one can hide there mistakes". Shellac lets you do that.
Regards
Randy
Linseed Oil
New member
tgober01
Try a brushing lacquer -
SA
Try a brushing lacquer -
SA
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