I am applying a finish on a curly maple corner cupboard. I have used this method on various project for many years . Water based aniline dye stain, followed by one coat of BLO, then several coats of shellac
followed by one coat of low luster Nitrocellulose lacquer to kill the shine of the shellac.
I work in an air conditioned shop but open the doors and run a ventilation fan to expel the air when I spray lacquer. The weather has been warm and rather humid the past few weeks.
I waited a day before applying the shellac, a fresh mix made from just purchased flakes. The next day the shellac sanded out fine, no gumming up on the sandpaper, just a fine powder.
The following day I applied one coat of low sheen Nitrocellulose lacquer.
The next day I noticed a bit of blushing in a few areas. Over these areas I used a rattle can of Mohawk blush retarder, as directed. The blush seemed to have disappeared but 18 hours later the retarder has left the lacquer in the areas
treated quite soft. It won't sand, gumming into balls when I try that.
So now I have a mess and need help. I tried a quick wipe with lacquer thinner to see if that would remove the retarder but that brought the blushing back with a vengeance.
Stripping it back to bare wood is not an option. There are too many shaped surfaces such as the glass door mullions.
Any help will be appreciated.
Herman
followed by one coat of low luster Nitrocellulose lacquer to kill the shine of the shellac.
I work in an air conditioned shop but open the doors and run a ventilation fan to expel the air when I spray lacquer. The weather has been warm and rather humid the past few weeks.
I waited a day before applying the shellac, a fresh mix made from just purchased flakes. The next day the shellac sanded out fine, no gumming up on the sandpaper, just a fine powder.
The following day I applied one coat of low sheen Nitrocellulose lacquer.
The next day I noticed a bit of blushing in a few areas. Over these areas I used a rattle can of Mohawk blush retarder, as directed. The blush seemed to have disappeared but 18 hours later the retarder has left the lacquer in the areas
treated quite soft. It won't sand, gumming into balls when I try that.
So now I have a mess and need help. I tried a quick wipe with lacquer thinner to see if that would remove the retarder but that brought the blushing back with a vengeance.
Stripping it back to bare wood is not an option. There are too many shaped surfaces such as the glass door mullions.
Any help will be appreciated.
Herman