Mortise and tenon

How and why would you use a mortised and tenoned joint? All periods should be considered. Always bevel the ends of each tenon.
 
If you don't  bevel the ends of your tenons then it would be like sticking this dog in a two inch hole. I would never do that. You shouldn't either.
 

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My 5/16" tenon thickness comment with there being 3/8"of meat from the outside edge is only meant as a general rule in period furniture.
 
Have you found many split tenons on wider rails in your observations of period furniture? If so, what determines when such a tenon is split?

Michael
 
I have seen plenty of period tenons that do not have bevel ends.  ANy thru tenon might as well be wedged.  Why not?  It just makes it that much stronger.  I have mainly seen them on the top of pedestal tables where the columnb joins the block.  And thru side rail tenons....Make sure the tenon fits very snug into the mortise on the width prior to wedgeing to avoid splits below the tenon...
 
Jeff L Headley said:
Were the through tennons ends beveled first and then the bevel trimmed flat afterwards?
Click to expand...

Quite probably. Those I have seen were trimmed level with the block, so why not bevel the tenons first if it eases them through initially?

I have seen very few North American side- and dining chairs, but those I have seen had seat rails which were through-tenoned and wedged (at the back only).

Also, many bookcase/linencupboard doors frames were through-tenoned and wedged.
 
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