Mahogany Dining Table Top Restoration

Jeff L Headley

Well-known member
I have a dining table top I have just aquired which has a very TERRIBLE!!! screw damage on the top. It looks to have a Varnish finish which was flipped on a carpet with a screw on the carpet and then spun around. Quite a bit of surface damage. I would like to fill the surface damage and then add a final surface coat or?
 
Of course my camera died. I have no pictures. I can not clean off the table top because it is one section of a larger table which should not be refinished. I am thinking of a shellac stick burn in but am apprehensive. I usually spray my finishes but this has brush marks. Dog on it! This table top has been SCREWED up literally. Each top is a single board and San Domingo Mahogany.
 
Sometimes this type of damage is mostly denting and can be raised with steam or hot water in a syringe. When raised it can require much less filling. Sometimes if not raised it will raise by itself after going through a few humidity cycles and push up your fill. Sometimes the water used to raise the dent will turn the wood dark then you have to bleach and in paint. Sometimes fixing this stuff is a real pain in the butt.
 
Jeff,

The quickest, least obtrusive way of fixing this type of damage, especially to an old piece, is the shellac sticks.  It is too bad we are not closer, I can usually get a novice doing it quite well in about an half hour or so.  It is very easy if you have an experienced person show you how.  PSP
 
Peter, Are the shellac sticks easily reversable? heat/alcohol? without any damage to the surounding surface/area? I would guess that it also depends on the present type/condition of the top's finish. From Jeff's post, the table has historic/antique value that could be compromised without proper repair/conservation.

Jeff, What type of finish is on the table top now? Any Photos yet?
 
macchips4,

Shellac sticks are probably the most reversible repair option for this type of damage.  Heat will remelt them, alcohol dissolves them, or you can pick them out with the point of a sharp knife or awl.  The important thing to bear in mind is that you are approaching the solution to the damage as a finishing problem and not a woodworking problem.  Also, in line with your question, you are confining your work only to the damage, doing nothing to the surrounding area.  PSP
 
Again the finish is a brushed on vanish gloss finish with minimal broad alligatoring. The scar is a two foot J mostly thru the finish but some into the top fiber. My thought is to apply a clear high gloss shellac stick. Color is already there. Do you have much luck not applying any added surface finish afterwards? Land and rise like an airplane
 
Jeff,

On mahogany, I usually use a clear, amber toned stick.  It just depends on how things go doing the burn in whether you have to do some finish work over it.  Sometimes, I just fold a piece of sandpaper and use the fold to dull the fill if it is too shiny, which it usually is.  The airplane thing is a good analogy.  PSP
 
I have done a fair share of burn ins... but by no means am I an expert at all... I just wonder how much you will be able to hide it on a finish with brush marks and why are you keeping the brush marks? 
 
Plane the top off, do some distressing, refinish with alligatored varnish, keep your mouth shut. If the table and finish were that big of a deal they would have taken care of it in the first place. How is that for 2 cents worth!! This is the antiques business, smoke and mirrors, they probably don't care what you do they just don't want to know.
Yes I am a bit cynical.
 
Mike,
A bit?

Jeff,

An additional suggestion:  If the client will accept the additional cost.  After doing a serious repair, or number of repairs, I will often go over the entire table top with a felt block and 400 grit sandpaper, then pad on a thin coat of Behlen's Qualasole.  Steel wool and wax.  The whole top matches,  the entire surface has a nice new glow, and it probably won't blow up until we are all in our graves.  PSP
 
I am sure Jeff will discuss all the options with the customer and the pricing. He will do a great job at whatever type of repair he does. The stick shellac is by far the least invasive procedure and also reversible.
Depending on whether the table is for family use or is a museum display could also be a factor. If it is a display and the scratches are shallow even colored wax sticks will work. Shallow scratches can also be filed with clear finish. Hard to say without seeing the thing and knowing where and how it will be used. I  know that skinning an antique is pretty abhorrent to those in the trade. Typically describing a worst case scenario or abhorrent solution makes the other options look better.
I hope it turns out well Jeff and good luck with the new camera! post a photo of the repair.
 
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