Bevelled Panels

[donstephan]

IK'm interested in trying some beveled panels in a solid frame - form the bevel on tablesaw then handplane smooth.  Wondering how tightly the panel should fit in the frame, and whether it depends on the season.  Tight fit in humid season then looser fit in dry season; loose fit in humid season then possibly rattling in extremely dry season.  I expect the edge of the dado can crush slightly if just a bit more expansion needed.  For fine furniture, are there guidelines for the angle of the bevel and tightness of the fit?  Thanks.

 

[kerry grubb]

donstephen, I have done a mile of raised panel work,both architectually and in furniture.  I have used the table saw method, which I think is the fastest as well as cutters on shapers and routers. I make the panels about 3/16 smaller than tight for movement. I have found that most of the panels I have made have shrunk more than swell. A trick that I do with the table saw method,after I bevel I hand plane to remove saw marks, then I will square the edges to about a 5/16 or so from the edge so that they seat into the rabbets squarely.  I have found that if you leave the bevel all the way to the edge you can split out the stiles/rails when you assemble the panel complete. I have also used spacers (trade named space balls) to keep down on rattle. I have not had alot of success with them. My guess is that the originals rattled when they dried as well. Kerry

 

[Jeff Saylor]

I've also made quite a few raised panels- doors, paneled chests, etc.  Most have been cut out with a tablesaw, usually in a 3/4" frame the panel would be 5/8" thick and cut at 12 degrees.  As for sizing the panel, it depends on the season.  Right now in PA things are swelled to the max so panels can be fit snug to the frame.  In January, things are dried out and the panel will fit loosely in width.  There are a lot of articles out there that tell you how to calculate a panel's width for expansion determined by wood species, whether it's quartersawn or plainsawn, etc.
If you get a good fit of the panel to the groove in the frame, there shouldn't be much "rattle" in the dry months because the panel still fits the upper and lower rail fairly well.  On very wide panels, I will center the panel after glue-up and drive a small brad through the upper and lower rails into the back of the panel at the middle to keep it centered throughout seasonal changes in width.

 

[Antiquity]

You are better to have a tenon on all four edges of the panel.  This will help to keep it from rattling.  If you just have the bevel and it shrinks in winter you will also see a gap between the bevel and the quarter round profile on the frame.

I use a panel raising plane to cut my panels and it is set to cut a 3/8" wide tenon.  I don't believe in "space balls".  When the panel expands the balls will compress.  When the panel expands even more and the balls cannot compress any more the frame could split apart.  When I was an apprentice the boss said, "make the job so it does not come back for repair".

To help keep the panels from rattling I center the panel in the frame after it is assembled and glued together.  Then from the back side I drive a 1/2" brad thru the frame groove and into the tenon.  The brad should be in the center of the panel so the panel will expand and contract equally in both directions.

Remember to finish the panel before final assembly so you will not see that unsightly white line when the panel shrinks in winter.

Dennis Bork
Antiquity Period Designs, Ltd.