An Out Standing Chest

I was asking what the temperature was when you applied these substances. Mountain dew, yahoo,( remember the old commercials) has a high sugar content and with heat at 108 degrees with high humidity and then on a flat surface in front of a Southern facing window, what might the out come be? This would not be an unreasonable circumstance in the South for my client to call me and say that they have a problem or say that some mayonnaise was left on the surface in the same circumstances or a pumpkin left for three weeks on a top of a chest after Halloween or there maid ironed the table cloth on the table top. We didn't cover that one but they wanted us to. Also lacquer is easily removed which can not be said about poly vanish for future consideration unlike shellac which can be removed by just alcohol. I have to deal with some of the most unimaginable circumstances.
I should have added I like orange shellac for an aged look. Finishing has so many variables that they all can not be covered in weeks of postings. I guess my comments about the finish, being easy, was not taken in the humours manner in was meant.
But if your "improved" shellac will withstand these and other unforseen problems please sign me up. I am always trying to improve my workmanship and I can always learn more.
 
Wow - submitting a request for "warranty" after somone ironed a shirt on a table top!?!  That's gotta be one bold (or dumb, or both) customer.  Sort of like pouring acid all over you new car's paint job and asking the dealer to repair it because it wasn't "impervious".

Anyway - to answer your question, the temperature when these substances were applied to the test finishes was somewhere around 80 degrees and roughly 50% humidity.

Part of the reason that I did this is because a customer had asked to have the choice in finish chemistry, and had been told by a contractor that shellac was totally inappropriate, and just leaving an ice-filled glass on it for 15 mintues would cause a white ring.  My experimentation was largely an effort to prove to the end-user that wasn't so.  In the end, I convinced her that the advantages of easy repairability of shellac, laquer, or other evaporative-cure finish was far preferable to a catalyzed coating like poly that would require stripping the whole piece.
 
If you have found these postings interesting then please consider, we are not public radio so, now might be a good time to join or renew your dues to The Society of American Period Furniture Makers. What I have posted is but a scratch on the surface of what you and this organization has to offer.
 
Jeff,

Thanks for the great postings.  I wasn't going to renew this year due to financial concerns, but after following your post and reading your last comment I decided renewing was the right think to do.  Thanks for the little push.  I hope others follow,

Tom
 
Jeff,
How am I doing?  I've been at it since late April (an hour here; two hours there) but I finally have the case work done.  Man I grossly under estimated the amount of lumber required for a piece like this.  It took me awhile to find someone with wide stock and he had one piece just barely wide enough for that bottom drawer front. 

So now I'm prepping drawer stock, but I was wondering if you could give me some info on the hardware you used - pulls and the side handles.  I confess that I haven't done any research on my own.  I'm hoping to take the lazy man route and get supplier and part numbers from you.  I'm assuming that the side handles are bolted on with the nut counterbored so to not interfer with the drawer ?

It's been a fun project - should consume the rest of my summer and most of the fall- first of this magnitude for me.  Many dovetails cut and many more to go.

Best regards,
-Chuck


 
 

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Chuck, Your progress looks great. This will be a chest to last many lifetimes. I hope you are enjoying this project. That is why I posted it. The post and bail handles for the drawer fronts have a 3 1/2" boring and the lifting handles should be a minimum of the same. Bigger might be better for the lifting handles. Please look at Londonderry brasses for a true period look. Horton brasses should be a consideration for a newer look. I have never been disappointed with either. I have also ordered many things from Whitechapel Ltd and Ball and Ball with good results. 
 
Jeff,
Thanks for the  info - every little bit helps.  I had a feeling that Lodonderry might be your first suggestion.  Unfortunately I couldn't get the purchase requisition to Londonderry approved (sometimes they just don't understand). 

Yes, I've enjoyed the project very much and really appreciate the thread - I know it takes time and dedication to do that.  I just wish I had more time to devote to the effort, I didn't think this would take all summer.  I wasn't in the shop at all last week, but finally got to start building drawers over the weekend.

Stay tuned, I'll be back for some advice on that cock (cog) beading.  I don't use routers.

Best regards,
-Chuck


 
This can be a great winter or summer project. I would be more than happy to answer any additional questions about this project if needed.
 
I decided to post a couple of crappy photos from my Blackberry of my finished piece since the real camera has crashed and it doesn't look like a repacement is coming soon.
I finished it just before Christmas (in the family room since it was too cold in the shop) and for obvious reasons it went directly to my daughter's bedroom (yes the walls are tangerine).
If for no other reason than to encourage Jeff to do more such postings.
Primary wood is cherry and the pulls and lifts are from Horton Brass.
It was quite the hit with all the holiday visitors.




   
 

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Chuck, Nice chest, but really what will make this worth while is when, 60 years from now, your daughter will need help moving this chest. She will think about you.
 
Thank you, all, for the kind words.  John, I will admit that there was a time when I considered that path, but at this time in my life I'm looking forward to retiring from my day job.  I could use the same byline as you: Buiding furniture as a hobby for 40 years.

Jeff, thanks again for taking the time to do this thread.

Best regards,
-Chuck
 
Hi All,


I am a fledging woodworker and was given a number of magazines and books by an eldery gentelman who is nice enough to mentor me. One of the books was from the Historic Charleston Foundation and contained a photo of this triple chest. It caught my eye. While researching the chest I found out it was also pictured in the three volume set The Furniture of Charleston. Well... while trying to find those books for sale I stumbled across a thread on this forum that detailed where those books could be found. Next thing I know I am reading, reading, and re-reading this thread.


Cant tell you how delighted I am to have found this!!! Thanks to the author for spending the time to detail this build. I look forward to building this (actually already stareted). I feel pretty confident with my ability to make the jointry, but just the size of it, it is the biggest thing I have built so far, will present my small shop some learing lessons. (to big to square it up with my Starrett combination square)


Again, Thanks for the post. This is truly an Outstanding Chest!



 
construction is complete. Start finishing tomorrow :( Wish me luck.
I was able to follow the thread and all of the joinery is pretty much the same as in this thread. I like the way the half dovetails look so I did not cover them up as was done in the original. I had never made ogee feet so I went with those.


If I had my time to go over with I would have started with 5/4 wood instead of 4/4 because by the time I got the boards flat they were a little thinner than I like. Also I think the cockbeading in my chest may be a little thicker, around 3/16 inch,  than the one described in the thread. I used 1/2 inch maple for the drawer sides. Wish I had used 5/8 instead, but overall I am mostly happy so far.
Going to finish by sanding, wetting, sanding, wash coat of 1lb shellac, sand that back a bit, thin coat of boiled linseed oil, dye, then shellac.




orry about the sideways photo. Can't seem to get it right...
 

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This is the finished chest. There are some places where I could have done a little better job, but it looks better in real life and the wife is happy with it.
 

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